How to Shorten Jeans Without Losing the Original Hem
Have you ever found a pair of jeans that fit perfectly everywhere except the length?
If you’re anything like me, the thought of cutting off that lovely original hem can be enough to make you put the scissors down.
But you don’t have to choose between jeans that are too long and losing the original hem.
In this tutorial I’ll show you how to shorten jeans while keeping the original hem, so your jeans still have that professionally finished look.
It’s a really useful sewing alteration to have up your sleeve, and once you’ve done it a couple of times, it’s a fairly straightforward way to make your clothes fit you better rather than working around the clothes you already have.
What you’ll need
The jeans you want to shorten
Safety pins
A ruler or seam gauge
Pins
Sewing machine with zip foot + thread to match the denim
Iron
Before you start
Try your jeans on with the shoes you are most likely to wear with them.
Fold the jeans up to your desired finished length and check that you’re happy with where the original hem will sit. Use safety pins to hold the hem in the correct position (these are less likely to pop out / scratch you and are stronger than regular sewing pins).
It’s worth spending a little time on this stage. A few extra minutes checking the length can save you from having to undo your alteration later.
How to shorten jeans while keeping the original hem
1. Measure and pin into place
Once the jeans have been taken off, measure the amount you want to take from the hem making sure it is the same all around the hem. Pin the hem into place so it doesn't slip during stitching. Match the side seams carefully so there is no twisting.
2. Stitch the new seam
Using your sewing machine, attach a zip foot and move your needle towards the left. The zipper foot will to allow you to get really close to the original hem. Starting in the middle, stitch around the leg as close as you can to the original hem. Make sure you are holding the fabric firmly so it can't twist or distort. Go slowly, particularly when you reach bulky seams. You want your new stitching to blend in with the existing construction as much as possible.
3. Press your new hem
Press the new seam into place ironing the bulk upwards towards the leg of the jean. You can cut and overlock / zigzag if you prefer. In this tutorial I leave the fold inside to give a smooth finish and give the hem weight.
Pressing helps the new hem settle into place and makes the finished jeans look much more like they were made that length in the first place.
4. Stitch excess fabric into the side seams
In this tutorial I fold the excess fabric up and stitch it securely at the side seams (rather than cutting off and overlocking). This creates a deep, heavy hem, which works particularly well with denim. It also means there are no raw edges left showing inside the jeans.
After pressing, stitch the side seams of the jeans to the side seams of the excess hem. With a standard machine foot stitch ontop of the side seams (a.k.a stitch in the ditch) to attach the excess hem to the sides of the jeans. the stitching should disappear into the seams and be unseen.
And that’s it!
You now have jeans that are the right length without losing the original hem.
Why I like this method
One of my favourite things about sewing is being able to make clothes work better for the person wearing them.
We often think of alterations as fixing something that’s gone wrong, but they can simply be about making a garment fit your body and your life better.
And with jeans, keeping the original hem makes such a difference to the finished result.
You still get the original stitching, fading and finish at the bottom of the leg, rather than replacing it with a new line of stitching that can look noticeably different.
It’s a small alteration, but it can make a much-loved pair of jeans feel like they were made for you.
Watch the full tutorial
If you’d rather watch me talk you through the process, I’ve also made a full video tutorial showing each stage from start to finish.
A more sustainable way to look at your wardrobe
Learning little alterations like this is one of the simplest ways to get more wear from the clothes you already own.
You don’t need to completely transform your wardrobe overnight.
Sometimes it’s simply a case of looking at something you already have and thinking:
“How can I make this work better for me?”
A hem that’s too long doesn’t necessarily mean the jeans need to go.
A small alteration can be enough to turn them back into something you’ll reach for again and again.
And that’s one of the reasons I love sewing.
It gives us the skills to make our clothes fit our bodies, rather than feeling like our bodies have to fit the clothes.
Happy sewing! ✂️
Claire x
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